Clusel Roch
Overview
Clusel Roch is a prime Côte-Rôtie domaine, officially organic since 2002 though practices go back further. The vineyards — mostly on schist in the northern sector — are worked with tremendous care, including selection massale Syrah from home cuttings. The wines are refined, understated, and very pure, carrying a Burgundian finesse mixed with northern Rhône depth and sinew. The domaine expanded in 1989 after the retirement of René Clusel and the arrival of Brigitte Roch. Son Guillaume is now at the helm and from 2021 all wines are titled “Clusel Roch” (dropping “Domaine” and “Guillaume Clusel” labels).
Appellations
- Côte-Rôtie
- Condrieu
- Coteaux du Lyonnais
- Côtes du Rhône
Key Wines
- Les Grandes Places — the top cuvée, based on 1935 Sérine vines; formidable complexity. Rated up to 6-star by JLL (2019), 5-star STGT in 2018 and 2022
- La Viallière — revived in 2009, also a winner
- Le Champon — introduced in 2018, from the best 0.5 ha of a 1.5 ha plot, ~2,000 bottles
- Les Schistes (formerly “Classique”) — based on 1960s Syrah, a notch below the other two parcellaire wines
- Bonnevière — acquired 2020 from ex-Othéguy domaine, 1945-55 vines, 0.2 ha. JLL notes Burgundian quality from the vine age
- Leyat — also acquired 2020, 1945-55 vines, 0.2 ha
- Côte Rozier — acquired 2020, 1984 vines; these three plots were the first ever organically worked vineyards at Côte-Rôtie
- Condrieu Verchery
- Côtes du Rhône Les Vergers — from late 2000s Syrah on the plateau above Verenay and Le Plomb (from 2019)
Guillaume also makes wines from the Coteaux du Lyonnais west of Lyon, including the brilliant Traboules Gamay (from 30-year vines) and Les Pessiaux (70% from a magical 1896-1904 vineyard on old glacier deposits at 300m altitude at Millery).
Style Notes
Refined and understated Côte-Rôtie with Burgundian finesse layered over northern Rhône depth. The wines benefit from ageing. The schist terroirs of the northern sector give purity and mineral drive. Guillaume’s 2020 acquisition of the ex-Othéguy plots brought wines that JLL describes as having “a real Burgundian tinkle, tribute to the age of the vines.”
My Tastings
Key Wines & Vintage Notes (JLL / drinkRhone.com)
Clusel-Roch has 27 wines in the JLL database. Focus here is on the top Cote-Rotie cuvees.
Cote-Rotie Les Grandes Places
The top cuvee, based on 1935 Serine vines. Rated up to ★★★★★★ (2019).
| Vintage | Rating | Drinking Window | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 | ★★★★(★) | 2053-55 | Elegant red cherry, pure, sizzle; “light on its feet” |
| 2023 | — | 2052-54 | Bold, broad, solid depth; layered black fruits, graphite |
| 2022 | ★★★★★ | 2053-56 | Wide, lurking dark red fruit, raspberry; “thoroughly well established STGT” |
| 2021 | — | 2048-50 | Snappy; licorice, rose petal, graphite; sun ripeness |
| 2020 | — | 2053-55 | Elegance, curvy coulis of red fruits, violet, perfume |
| 2019 | — | 2055-57 | Major spark, cordite, blue fruit, raspberry; “very cool” |
| 2018 | — | 2048-50 | Smoky, iron thread, black berry, licorice; rocky northern sector |
Cote-Rotie Les Schistes (formerly “Classique”)
Based on 1960s Syrah.
| Vintage | Rating | Drinking Window | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 | ★★★★ | 2047-49 | Homely raspberry; orderly; multiple cask tastings |
| 2023 | ★★★★ | 2047-49 | Good droiteur, violets, spark, blue fruit |
| 2022 | ★★★★ | 2045-48 | Raspberry, iron lift; cool fruiting, linear drive |
| 2020 | — | 2046-48 | Soft blackberry lozenges, coulis-like sweetness |
| 2019 | — | 2047-49 | Good clarity, fine red berry line |
Cote-Rotie La Vialliere
Revived 2009.
| Vintage | Rating | Drinking Window | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 | — | 2049-51 | Raspberry, nutty air, cherry stone tang |
| 2023 | ★★★★ | 2047-49 | Neatly floral, macerated red cherry; gentle and true |
| 2022 | — | 2050-52 | Cordite, lit match snap; raspberry; faithful to terroir |
| 2019 | ★★★★ | 2049-51 | Darkness, restraint; close-knit red fruit, dried herbs |
Cote-Rotie Le Champon
Introduced 2018 from best 0.5 ha of a 1.5 ha plot. ~2,000 bottles.
| Vintage | Rating | Drinking Window | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 | ★★★★(★) | 2049-51 | Peony, floral curve, cooked plums, iron filings |
| 2023 | — | 2050-52 | Gentle violet, soft mulberry, raspberry |
| 2022 | ★★★★ | 2048-52 | Iron, smoke, mystery; rock-iron intro; “a Burgundian tinkle” |
| 2021 | ★★★★ | 2046-48 | Compact, firm red fruit, cherry; primary stage |
| 2020 | — | 2052-54 | Clear toned, neat cherries, dusty trails, intricate violet |
Cote-Rotie Les Cinq Lieux
| Vintage | Rating | Drinking Window | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 | — | 2052-54 | Shapely, red cherry, smoked bacon, crushed raspberry |
| 2023 | — | 2050-52 | Well smoked, bacon fat, flowers, roses |
| 2022 | ★★★★+ | 2050-52 | Smoky, cool; iron and rockface; confirmed raspberry |
Bonniviere, Leyat, Montmain, Fongeant (2022 debut bottlings)
New single-plot bottlings from 2020 ex-Otheguy acquisitions (1945-55 vines). JLL notes Burgundian quality from vine age.
- Bonniviere 2022: (2046-48) — smoky, mulberry, crystalline fruit
- Leyat 2022: (2049-51) — raspberry, damp moss, lucid cherry
- Montmain 2022: (2048-50) — likely first solo bottling; raspberry with sun ripeness
- Fongeant 2022: (2050-52) — roses, violets, cool raspberry; “very true”
Vintage Highlights (JLL Vintage Reports)
2013 Cote-Rotie: Les Grandes Places five stars. A tricky year that worked out well — good body and terroir expression. See 2013 Rhone Vintage.
2010 Cote-Rotie: La Viallière five stars. An extraordinary vintage of balance and richness. See 2010 Rhone Vintage.
2009 Cote-Rotie: Les Grandes Places six stars; La Viallière six stars. Two of only six six-star Côte-Rôties in the vintage — a magnificent achievement. See 2009 Rhone Vintage.
Sources
sources/articles/JLL/Clusel-Roch.txt— JLL / drinkRhone.com producer profilesources/articles/JLL/rhone_wines_data.json— Wine-by-wine vintage notes (JLL / drinkRhone.com)sources/articles/JLL/rhone_vintage_reports.json— JLL vintage reports 2009-2014