Domaine de Montille

Overview

Domaine de Montille is one of the finest and most important estates in the Cote de Beaune, based in Volnay and now comprising 37 hectares under the direction of Etienne de Montille. The domaine has undergone major vineyard swaps in 2023–2024: exchanging holdings with Bouchard Pere & Fils, Dujac, Alex Moreau, and Roulot (see details below). Chef de cave is Brian Sieve. The domaine also runs a Kosher wine project with rabbinical oversight.

Appellations

• Volnay 1er Cru: Taillepieds (~80yo vines, 1.51 ha), Champans (0.97 ha), Mitans (0.73 ha)
• Pommard 1er Cru: Rugiens-Bas (1.02 ha), Pezerolles (1.36 ha), Grand Epenots
• Beaune 1er Cru: Greves (1.26 ha), Sizies (1.62 ha), Perrieres
• Corton-Clos du Roi (0.84 ha, ~75+ year old vines)
• Clos de Vougeot (0.29 ha)
• Vosne-Romanee “Aux Malconsorts” 1er (0.97 ha) and “Malconsorts Christiane” (0.48 ha)

Key Wines

• Volnay “Taillepieds” (1er cru) — ~80-year-old vines; the domaine’s signature Volnay
• Pommard “Les Rugiens-Bas” (1er cru) — powerful, age-worthy Pommard
• Vosne-Romanee “Aux Malconsorts” (1er cru) — one of Vosne’s greatest premier crus
• Corton-Clos du Roi — from very old vines

Style Notes

The de Montille style emphasizes structure, purity, and aging potential. The estate uses significant whole cluster fermentation (33–100% in 2024) and the wines are built for the long term. Under Brian Sieve, the winemaking has refined further while maintaining the domaine’s classical approach.

Vineyard Swaps (2023–2024)

A head-spinning series of vineyard exchanges:

• Lost: Nuits St. Georges Aux St. Juliens and 1er Aux Thorey (to Dujac); Volnay Carelles and Monthelie parcels (to Alex Moreau); Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet (to Bouchard P&F); 2 ha Bourgogne pinot (to Bouchard)
• Gained: 1.5 ha Meursault Les Clous Dessous; 0.45 ha Meursault 1er Genevrieres Dessus; 0.4 ha Meursault 1er Caillerets; 1 ha Beaune 1er Sur les Greves; 0.25 ha Meursault Casse Tetes

2024 Vintage Notes (Burghound #102)

Brian Sieve: “it seemed like we were constantly fighting a rear guard battle.” Mildew appeared even before flowering (highly unusual) and continued after veraison (also unusual). Pinot yields 17–22 hl/ha except Mitans at only 9 hl/ha. Chardonnay 22–30 hl/ha. Potential alcohols ~12.5%; ~0.5% chaptalization for some wines. 33–100% whole clusters, 12–15 day cuvaison. Sieve: “I absolutely love the style of this vintage, I just wish there was more of it!” Meadows: “the de Montille team got the 2024 just right as there are some first-rate wines in the range.”

2024 Scores (mixed barrel/bottle):

• Volnay “Taillepieds” 1er (~80yo vines): (91-94) — “gorgeously textured and super-sleek”; “classic Taillepieds”; old school in style
• Vosne-Romanee “Aux Malconsorts” 1er: (91-94) — firmly reduced; excellent volume; tautly muscular; “presently a block” but typical for young Malconsorts
• Volnay “Les Mitans” 1er (only 9 hl/ha!): (91-93) — succulent, caressing; richness from low yields; “pretty much textbook Mitans”
• Pommard “Les Rugiens-Bas” 1er: (91-93) — super-sleek; mineral; “very backward”; “definitely a wine expressly meant to age”
• Volnay “En Champans” 1er: (90-93) — excellent punch and delineation; “very Volnay in character”
• Pommard “Les Pezerolles” 1er: (90-93) — good size and weight; dusty, firm
• Beaune “Greves” 1er: (90-92) — round, solidly powerful
• Beaune “Sizies” 1er: 90 (bottled) — “crunchy effort should drink well both young and with a few years”
• Corton-Clos du Roi: (89-92) — vibrant; borderline chewy finish; “going to require ample patience”
• Clos de Vougeot: (89-92) — reduced; awkward and surprisingly short; benefit of the doubt
• Vosne “Malconsorts Christiane”: (89-92?) — very firmly reduced; benefit of the doubt; question mark on score
• Bourgogne Pinot Noir: 88 (bottled) — “excellent for its level”; one to look for, especially for value

Kosher 2024 Scores (barrel):

• Pommard “Les Grand Epenots” 1er: (90-93) — “good quality here”
• Beaune “Les Perrieres” 1er: (87-89) — a bit lean

My Tastings

(none yet)

Sources

• sources/articles/Burghound/Burghound Issue 102 - 2024 and 2023 Cote de Beaune Reds.txt