Dominio de Es
Overview
Dominio de Es is one of the most remarkable artisan projects in Spanish wine, founded by Bertrand Sourdais — a Frenchman from Chinon (proprietor of Domaine du Pallus) who discovered and purchased two tiny parcels of pre-phylloxera Tempranillo bush vines in the remote province of Soria at the far eastern end of Ribera del Duero in 1999. The first wines were produced in 2011. The project occupies a unique and isolated corner of Ribera del Duero: the province of Soria constitutes only 6% of total Ribera del Duero vineyard area, sits at extreme elevations (900–1000m), and was largely bypassed by the modern, high-extraction style that defines most of the appellation. Sourdais’ vineyards are all farmed biodynamically.
Overview of Estate
The domaine’s three single-vineyard cuvées all come from ancient pre-phylloxera bush vines in the village of Atuata:
- La Mata (38 ares): vines dating back to at least 1904 (and likely earlier); sandy limestone over chocolate clay; Tempranillo (~84%), Albillo (~9%), Garnacha Tintorera (~7%); due east exposition; 935m altitude
- La Diva / La Valdegatiles (17 ares): Sourdais estimates ~200 years of age; sandier soils over limestone/chalk subsoil; Tempranillo (~85–88%), Albillo (~12–15%); due east; 950m altitude; most ethereal of the three
- Carravilla (27 ares; first vintage 2019): old vine Tempranillo + Albillo; due south exposition; 935m altitude; different Tempranillo clonal material from La Mata/La Diva; raised entirely in used barrels
- Viñas Viejas de Soria: blended entry-level bottling from 3.5 hectares of old/very old vines in and around the village; includes a portion of whole clusters (unlike the three single-vineyard cuvées)
Appellations
- Ribera del Duero D.O. (Soria province)
Key Wines
- La Diva — most ethereal, chalky, Albillo-influenced; first vintage 2012; raised in used oak; 12–24 months élevage
- La Mata — more powerful, clay-influenced; produced in new or near-new oak (François Frères) in most vintages; 2–3 casks/yr
- Carravilla — middle ground stylistically; entirely in used oak; 1–3 casks/yr
- Viñas Viejas de Soria — blended bottling; includes whole clusters; entry point
Style Notes
The wines of Dominio de Es are made with “Burgundian sensibilities” (Gilman) rather than the Bordeaux model followed by Vega Sicilia. They are terroir-transparent, structured for the long term, and made without the heavy extraction or new oak carpet that characterizes most Ribera del Duero. None of the single-vineyard wines had reached maturity as of Gilman’s October 2024 vertical. La Diva is the most delicate; La Mata the most powerful; Carravilla occupies a middle position. Production is minuscule — 1–3 casks per vineyard per vintage. The wines are very expensive and rare.
Key Scores from VFTC #115 Vertical (October 2024)
Carravilla:
| Vintage | Score | Drink |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 93+ | 2036–2075+ |
| 2022 | 92 | 2039–2075+ |
| 2021 | 95 | 2035–2075+ |
| 2020 | 93 | 2035–2075+ |
La Mata:
| Vintage | Score | Drink |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 93+ | 2025–2075+ |
| 2022 | 94 | 2037–2075+ |
| 2021 | 95 | 2035–2075+ |
| 2020 | 95+ | 2036–2085 |
| 2019 | 93+ | 2035–2075+ |
| 2018 | 95 | 2035–2085 |
| 2017 | 95 | 2035–2085 |
La Diva:
| Vintage | Score | Drink |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 93+ | 2038–2085 |
| 2022 | 95 | 2038–2085 |
| 2021 | 95 | 2037–2085 |
| 2020 | 94 | 2039–2085 |
| 2018 | 95+ | 2037–2085 |
| 2017 | 96 | 2036–2085 |
| 2016 | 94+ | 2036–2085 |
| 2015 | 94+ | 2033–2075+ |
| 2014 | 95 | 2035–2085 |
| 2013 | 93 | 2029–2075 |
| 2012 | 95 (magnum) | 2032–2085 |
My Tastings
(none yet)
Sources
sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Jan-Feb 2025 #115.txt(pages 152–164)