Henri Bonneau
Overview
Henri Bonneau (now run by his son Marcel Bonneau) was one of the legendary artisan producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, famous for producing in the most classical, non-interventionist way possible. The cellar under the family’s house in Châteauneuf was famously chaotic — wines aged in old casks for years, sometimes decades. The flagship wine “Réserve des Célestins” is produced only in exceptional years and is one of the most sought-after Châteauneuf of all time. Marcel Bonneau continues the tradition.
Key Wines
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Réserve des Célestins” — the top wine, only made in great years; aged many years before release
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Marie Beurrier” — second wine, still exceptional
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape — base wine
My Cellar
48 total bottles (0 recent).
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape: 48 btls (13 pending), 2009–2019
A serious holding of Bonneau, primarily from the middle of the last decade. No recent buying suggests this collection is being held for long-term aging.
Style Notes
Old-vine Grenache, long aging in old large foudres. The wines are dark, rich, and complex — dried fruit, tar, leather, herbs, and enormous structure. Even the base wine needs 10+ years. The Réserve des Célestins is generational.
My Tastings
Producer Profile (JLL / drinkRhone.com)
JLL calls Henri Bonneau “the one-off wonder of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.” He sadly died in spring 2016. The estate is now run by his son Marcel Bonneau.
JLL finds the wines “heady in the big vintages” and prefers the quieter years and more simple cuvees. Notably, there is an absence of tasting notes from JLL since Henri forbade him access to the cellars following what JLL wrote about Bonneau’s views on Joan of Arc and Napoleon Bonaparte. As JLL wryly notes: “The spirit of the Provencal grudge was alive and well!”
Export: USA via Alain Junguenet Selection.
Key Wines & Vintage Notes (JLL / drinkRhone.com)
Note: JLL’s access to the Bonneau cellars was limited. Henri famously banned JLL following what JLL wrote about Bonneau’s views on Joan of Arc and Napoleon. Notes below represent the available tastings.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Celestins
100% Grenache (1950s and older). Whole bunch, 3-week vinification, aged in used 228-litre casks and large barrels 18 months+. Only made in great years.
- 2005 — “Warm, richly hearted bouquet — cedar-mocha, pine, ample date, cooked fig. Compelling start. Proceeds under good sail, good tannic support, late aromatic burst of cinnamon and spice-pepper. Complete, interesting wine.” Drink 2034-36.
- 1992 — “Ample, holds great potential. Fiery, mega big wine. Has pretension, flirts with greatness. Near disorder of many of Henri’s wines with a sprinkling of his inimitable talent.” Drink 2020-22.
- 1990 — (from 20 hl large barrel) “Very bright purple. Concentrated but fine, length excellent. A lot of wine here. Up towards 15 degrees.” Drink 2025-27.
- 1989 — “Wild, almost leathery bouquet. Lovely dark, rich texture. More discreet, more ‘spherique’ than the 1990.” Drink 2025-27.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Marie Beurrier
80% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, Counoise, Vaccarese, Clairette blanche, Cinsault, Syrah. “A bit lighter than the Reserve des Celestins.”
- 1992 — “The attack is a monster — this is a Horn of Plenty. Essentially unbalanced; alcohol is predominant.” Drink 2014-16.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Henri Bonneau (base wine)
100% Grenache, whole bunch, 3-week vinification, 18 months in used casks.
- 2007 — “Gourmand toffee and sultry red fruit. Tasty and complete. Grenache on a Pinot trail — criss-cross between south and north.” 15 degrees. Drink 2033-36.
- 2006 — “Sparky, fresh, direct. Nice and naked, unadorned wine. I salute its freshness, and a touch of florality.” 13.5 degrees. Drink 2029-31.
Vintage Assessments (JLL Vintage Reports)
2006: Tradition red rated ★★★★ (“sparky, naked, unadorned,” drink 2029-31, tasted 11/15). A vintage of balance where Bonneau’s unadorned, traditional style shines. See 2006 Rhone Vintage.
Sources
- (Profile derived from CellarTracker data)
sources/articles/JLL/Henri_Bonneau.txt— Producer profile (John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkRhone.com)sources/articles/JLL/rhone_wines_data.json— JLL / drinkRhone.com wine-by-wine vintage notessources/articles/JLL/rhone_vintage_reports.json— JLL vintage reports 2006