William Kelley
Overview
Long-time wine journalist William Kelley made his first wines in Burgundy in the 2018 vintage. He now owns about a hectare of vines, including the old parcels previously owned by Terry and Frances Leighton of Kalin Cellars in the premier cru of les Chouacheux in Beaune and les Pierre Blanches in the Cote de Beaune appellation. Lives full-time in Beaune with cellars in Pommard. Also buys fruit from fine parcels throughout the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Tutored in his oak approach by Jean-Francois Coche, using the same cooper as Domaine Coche-Dury. Uses entirely new oak but with extraordinarily understated expression. Many cuvees in very small quantities (a barrel or two). Gilman: “I was extremely impressed with the wines I tasted on my visit and highly recommend any of William’s wines.”
Appellations
- Beaune (les Chouacheux premier cru)
- Cote de Beaune (les Pierre Blanches)
- Chambolle-Musigny (les Charmes, les Carrieres, les Foucheres)
- Corton-Charlemagne grand cru
- Saint-Romain
- Meursault
- Coteaux Bourguignons
Key Wines
- Beaune “les Chouacheux” (1er cru) — inherited from the Leightons of Kalin Cellars
- Chambolle-Musigny “les Charmes” (1er cru)
- Chambolle-Musigny “les Carrieres” (1er cru) — very rare bottling
- Corton-Charlemagne grand cru — only a single cask
- Cote de Beaune “les Pierre Blanches” — inherited from the Leightons
Style Notes
All wines raised entirely in new oak, but the oak expression is “amazingly understated and subtle” — Gilman says he would have guessed one- and two-wine barrels rather than new casks. Uses same cooper as Coche-Dury. Generally allows a long, relaxed elevage (some wines two years in cask). Very small production across most cuvees.
2023 Vintage Notes (VFTC #115)
First time Gilman tasted these wines. Visited in Pommard. Everything still in cask.
2023 Scores:
- Corton-Charlemagne: 94+ pts (2029–2050+) — single cask from en Charlemagne; “remarkable first effort”; “Chapeau!”
- Chambolle “les Carrieres”: 93+ pts (2036–2075+) — very rare premier cru near Gruenchers; “excellent wine in the making!”
- Chambolle “les Charmes”: 93 pts (2035–2075+) — fruit from extreme northern end; near Feusselottes; “great juice”
- Beaune “les Chouacheux”: 93 pts (2033–2075+) — “truly exceptional young bottle of Beaune premier cru”; inherited from Leightons
- Cote de Beaune “les Pierre Blanches”: 92 pts (2029–2060) — only one 350L barrel; “great juice, no matter what appellation”
- Chambolle “les Foucheres”: 90+ pts (2030–2065) — old vines from 1950s with co-planted pinot gris
- Saint-Romain “Sur la Velle”: 90+ pts (2025–2035+) — 80-year-old chardonnay vines
- Coteaux Bourguignons Blanc “les Escarottes”: 89 pts (2025–2035+) — vines in Meursault from 1936; chardonnay/aligote/pinot noir field blend
Also: 2022 Meursault “les Pelles”: 91+ pts (2025–2045+) — first chardonnay produced; “first class Meursault villages”
My Tastings
(none yet)
Sources
sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Jan-Feb 2025 #115.txt