yves-gangloff

Yves Gangloff (Mathilde et Yves Gangloff)

Overview

Yves set out on his vinous journey in 1987 from Condrieu, and is now something of a veteran “although you wouldn’t know it from his approach, and rock n’ roll music playing.” His life was marked by tragedy: wife Mathilde died prematurely just at harvest time in 2011, in her early fifties. She was an artistic all-rounder — sang jazz, designed soaps from grape varieties, and worked on the domaine. Friends and colleagues helped with the 2011 harvest. Daughter Elsa joined the domaine in the late 2010s. Based in Condrieu.

Appellations

• Côte-Rôtie
• Condrieu
• Saint-Joseph

Key Wines

• La Sereine Noire (Côte-Rôtie) — capable of sound evolution; the 5-star 2015 should live ~25 years. The 2017 was also 5-star: JLL’s note captures “the combination of rocks and flowers is most compelling, all in one glass”
• La Barbarine (Côte-Rôtie)
• Côte Rozier (Côte-Rôtie) — introduced as a sole cuvée in 2015 (5-star, 1,500 bottles); usually blended into La Sereine Noire
• Condrieu — beautiful elegance, always rich and perfumed. Since 2018 raised partly in amphorae, which Yves says brings increased freshness
• Condrieu Les Vendanges de Noé
• Saint-Joseph red and white — sound quality
• Vin de France Viognier — from 0.3 ha touching the Condrieu appellation, raised half in jar, half in cask

Style Notes

The domaine’s trademark is finesse and stylish fruit — one of the most elegant producers in Côte-Rôtie. JLL’s 2017 tasting note is a benchmark description of great Côte-Rôtie: “The fruit serves to link the rocks and the flowers, two of nature’s elements, rather than it being a wine with fruit first, plus two other touches. This is core Côte-Rôtie.”

Key Wines & Vintage Notes (JLL / drinkRhone.com)

Cote-Rotie La Sereine Noire

100% 1950s Syrah from Mollard (oldest 1936-38, 0.6 ha granite) and Cote Rozier (0.6 ha schist). 50-65% destemmed, 22-23 months in 228-litre oak (25-65% new). 4,500-5,000 bottles.

• 2020 — ***() — “Notch of class. Complex, a take your time wine.” Blood-iron on the close, iodine, floral notes. Drink 2047-49.
• 2019 — “Airborne, takes to the skies. Tight, rocky, controlled, very much on its terroir. Naked wine, all to play for.” Swerved 2019 excess. Drink 2051-53.
• 2017 — ***** — “The combination of rocks and flowers is most compelling, all in one glass. The fruit serves to link the rocks and the flowers, two of nature’s elements, rather than a wine with fruit first. This is core Cote-Rotie.” A benchmark JLL description. 70% Mollard, 30% Rozier (coulure on Rozier). Drink 2041-43.
• 2016 — ***() — “Rockstrewn, bright tart fruits with verve, appealing combination of violet/perfume and iron. Burgundian, gradual expansion wine.” Drink 2043-45.
• 2015 — ***** — “Lots of brightness allied to intense content, a true version of 2015. Long and sparky.” Both Mollard and Rozier casks rated *****. Drink 2038-40.
• 2012 — ***() — “A strong contender for a leading 2012 Cote-Rotie, lots of local character and sinuous appeal, capable of provocation to the senses and the mind.” Drink 2028-30.

Cote-Rotie La Barbarine

95-97% Syrah, 3-5% Viognier from Combard (2002-2008) and Coteaux de Tupin (late 1980s-1992). 40-100% destemmed, 23 months in 300-litre oak. 8,000 bottles.

• 2023 (cask) — “Keen freshness, big on definition with scope and lift.” From 2028. Drink 2045-47.
• 2021 — “Buzzy and stylish, just the sort of vintage Yves likes.” 13.5 degrees. Drink 2041-43.
• 2020 — **** — “Locked up, dark and smoky. Good burrow of fruit within.” Drink 2044-46.
• 2019 — “Strewn with violet airs. Scented, rose petal, cordite, real bounty of flower bed and rockface.” Drink 2047-49.
• 2017 — **** overall — “Wine of character.” Whole bunch ~60%, more than in past. Drink 2040-42.
• 2015 — ***() — Coteaux de Tupin portion brings “ripe, sealed content” as prime foundation. Drink 2035-38.

Condrieu Yves Gangloff

65% Bonnette, 35% Chery. Fermented in 300-litre oak, raised in mix of amphorae (since 2018) and oak. 9-12,000 bottles.

• 2023 — “Elegant, sultry air, cooked pear, apricot, acacia flowers. Good and droit-linear on the finish.” Drink 2033-34.
• 2022 — “Pretty timeless Condrieu in style and offer.” Decant. From mid-late 2024. Drink 2034-35.
• 2020 — “Full, exuberant, rock n’roll Condrieu with control and mineral threads.” Drink 2031-33.
• 2016 — “Real good definition, a line of spine. Great finesse, pitter patter it goes.” Drink 2029-31.

Cote Rozier

100% Syrah (late 1940s) from schist. Only produced separately in 2015 (usually blended into La Sereine Noire). 1,500 bottles.

• 2015 — “Ping of lead pencil, soaked red cherries. Burgundian definition, real iron and blood and red fruits. Shape really like a six-pack — toned and handsome.” Drink 2036-38.

Saint-Joseph red

50% late-1980s Syrah, 50% 2009-10 Syrah from granite at Peyraud. 15 months in 300-litre oak. 1,250 bottles.

• 2020 — “Dash in its fruit, suave and fluid. A singing, w.o.w. wine, fun and convivial.” 80% whole bunches. Drink 2029-31.
• 2016 — “Clear as a bell red fruits, finesse, crystalline and pure. Burgundian finesse.” Drink 2025-26.

Vin de France Viognier

From 0.3 ha touching the Condrieu appellation. Raised in jar and cask. 800-1,500 bottles.

• 2016 — “Faithful local Viognier. Great table wine, bang! Plump and satisfying.” VALUE at 20 euros. Drink 2020-21.

My Tastings

Sources

• sources/articles/JLL/Mathilde_et_Yves_Gangloff.txt — JLL / drinkRhone.com producer profile
• sources/articles/JLL/rhone_wines_data.json — JLL / drinkRhone.com wine-by-wine vintage notes