Rioja
Overview
Rioja is Spain’s most celebrated wine region, centered on the Ebro River valley in northern Spain, straddling the border of La Rioja, Basque Country (Álava), and Navarre. It is divided into three sub-zones — Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental (formerly Baja) — each with distinct soils, climates, and styles. The region’s grand tradition of American-oak aging defines the classic style of Reserva and Gran Reserva Rioja, though French oak has become increasingly prevalent since the 1970s–80s.
The legendary estates of Haro’s Barrio de la Estación (near the train station) include CVNE (Cuné), Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Riscal, and López de Heredia — all dating to the 19th century and among Spain’s most historic bodegas.
Sub-Appellations
- Rioja Alta — cooler, higher elevation; largely tempranillo; home of Haro and the great traditional bodegas; CVNE (Cuné) sources Imperial Gran Reserva solely from Rioja Alta (Briones, Torremontalbo, Villaba de Rioja)
- Rioja Alavesa — Basque country side; garnacha historically important; Cuné’s Viña Real is solely Rioja Alavesa
- Rioja Oriental — warmer, lower elevation; garnacha-dominant; less prestigious
Key Producers
- CVNE (Cuné) — Haro; founded 1879; Imperial and Viña Real flagship cuvées; cellars by Gustave Eiffel (1899); one of Rioja’s most historic bodegas
- Viñedos del Contino — Rioja Alavesa; single estate; CVNE joint venture; “Viña del Olivo” (96 pts, 2021) is the flagship; Gran Reserva 95 pts (2017)
- La Rioja Alta — Haro; founded 1890; Viña Ardanza Reserva (94 pts, 2019), Viña Arana Gran Reserva; classical American oak style; one of Gilman’s favorites
- Marqués de Murrieta — Logroño; Reserva and Gran Reserva; 94 pts (2021 Reserva); classical American oak style
Grape Varieties
- Tempranillo — dominant; structured, age-worthy; now ~85% of Imperial Gran Reserva
- Garnacha — historically co-equal with Tempranillo in traditional blends (~40% each pre-1990s); now diminishing due to climate change and barrel-aging suitability concerns
- Graciano — aromatic, adds freshness; ~10% in modern Imperial
- Mazuelo (Carignan) — ~5% in modern Imperial; structure and color
Style Notes
Traditional Rioja Gran Reserva is defined by long oak aging (minimum 2 years cask + 3 years bottle before release; traditionally much longer), tertiary complexity, and seamless integration of oak into the wine’s structure. The classic aromatic profile of mature Imperial Gran Reserva: black cherries, plum, Cuban cigar wrapper, nutmeg, Rioja spice, dark soil, cedary oak — evolving over decades into dried fruits, leather, caramel, tobacco. Cuné’s verticals back to 1947 confirm the style is remarkably consistent across more than seven decades.
My Tastings
(none yet)
Sources
sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Nov-Dec 2025 #120.txt— “Tasting Cuné’s Magical Rioja Imperial” (pages 88–97): history of Cuné, Imperial Gran Reserva methodology, cépages evolution, vertical tasting notes 1947–2018- VFTC #117 (John Gilman, May-June 2025), pages 47–88 — Part Two Spain/Portugal report; extensive coverage of Rioja, Penedès, Priorat, Navarra, Jumilla, Galicia; key producers Contino, La Rioja Alta, Marqués de Murrieta