2012 Rhône Vintage
Summary
JLL rates 2012 as 8/10 North, 8/10 South, 8/10 whites — a tinkling year of good freshness, enjoyable fruit, and really drinkable, very expressive wines that age with interest and show fine nuances. The first vintage in 20+ years when CdP showed signs of easing back on extraction. A “northern” vintage in character — elegance over power — with wines that hark back to the 1980s style. JLL: “I hope you stocked up.”
Northern Rhône
Côte-Rôtie
A good, northern-style vintage. JLL prefers 2012 to 2011, and both have the ability to develop past their first decade. Much more polished vineyard management and cellar technique than the 1980s vintages it recalls. Jamet Côte Brune earned five stars, capturing “the dark mystery of the most illustrious hillside at Côte-Rôtie.” Jean-Paul and wife Corinne separated from brother Jean-Luc after this vintage.
Hermitage
Very good. Wines hold good content, are fresh, and have expanded in dimension since release. JLL was “particularly impressed by their striking depth recently, and their ability to reflect their terroir.” Five-star wines from Delas Les Bessards, Faurie Les Greffieux-Bessards, Guigal Ex-voto, and Ferraton Le Méal.
Cornas
A vintage that brings out the elegance in Cornas — a “singing” vintage where the Syrah leans towards a mature Pinot Noir in style (the “Pinoté” effect). Both Clape and Allemand Reynard “displayed Burgundian tendencies, their length stealthy and accomplished.” The relative stability of the growing season and abundance meant no real drama. Five-star wines from Guillaume Gilles Chaillot, Ferraton Patou, and Domaine du Tunnel.
Saint-Joseph
Easy-going, well-fruited wines. A “classic” vintage, not one to linger long in memory, but plenty of agreeable wines. Harvesting ran well into September, ending in early October.
Southern Rhône
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
An important, paradigm-shifting vintage. The style is naturally fresh wines that drink freely — “dentelle” (toothsome). “One has the desire to drink another glass, and kick back.” This runs in direct contrast to the powerful, sweet, heavily extracted wines of the previous two decades. The first vintage in 20+ years when CdP showed signs of easing back on extraction. Five-star wines from Rayas, Beaucastel (including Hommage J Perrin), Clos des Papes, Château de la Gardine, Domaine Giraud, and others.
Gigondas
A cool, classic vintage with a personal inclination towards wines from sites close to the village and west of it, towards the River Ouveze — more precocious areas rather than the high Dentelles zones. Five-star wines from Domaine La Fourmone Le Fauquet and Domaine Les Pallières Les Racines.
Top Wines (5 stars)
Northern Rhône:
- Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune
- René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde
- E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne, La Turque
- Domaine de Bonserine Côte-Rôtie La Sarrasine
- Delas Hermitage Les Bessards
- Bernard Faurie Hermitage Les Greffieux-Bessards
- Ferraton Hermitage Le Méal
- E. Guigal Hermitage Ex-voto
- E. Guigal Saint-Joseph Vignes de l’Hospice
- Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chenes
- Guillaume Gilles Cornas Chaillot
- Ferraton Cornas Patou
- Domaine du Tunnel Cornas
Southern Rhône:
- Château Rayas CdP
- Château de Beaucastel CdP (+ Hommage J Perrin)
- Clos des Papes CdP
- Château de la Gardine CdP Tradition
- Château de Vaudieu CdP Val de Dieu
- Clos du Mont-Olivet CdP Cuvée du Papet
- Domaine Giraud CdP Tradition
- Domaine Grand Veneur CdP Vieilles Vignes
- Domaine Roger Sabon CdP Secret des Sabon
- Domaine des 3 Cellier CdP Marceau
- Bosquet des Papes CdP Chante le Merle
- Domaine de la Charbonnière CdP Mourre des Perdrix
- Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines
- Domaine La Fourmone Gigondas Le Fauquet
Key Themes
- The Pinoté vintage: In Cornas especially, the wines show Burgundian tendencies — elegant, stealthy length rather than blockbuster power. This is a Syrah vintage for Pinot Noir lovers.
- CdP extraction pullback: JLL pinpoints 2012 as the first year in two decades when CdP producers began easing back on extraction, resulting in naturally fresh, drinkable wines. A potential turning point for the appellation.
- Northern character throughout: Even in the South, this is a cool-leaning, elegant vintage. The French word “dentelle” captures the toothsome, more-ish quality.
- Aging with interest: Despite initial impressions as a lighter vintage, the wines have continued to gain dimension and nuance with time.
Sources
sources/articles/JLL/rhone_vintage_reports.json— JLL vintage reports (2012 Northern Rhône, 2012 Southern Rhône, The 2000s and 2010s Overview)