Chateau Rayas

Overview

Chateau Rayas is perhaps the most singular and fascinating estate in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, owned by the Reynaud family and run by Emmanuel Reynaud (with son Benoit). JLL describes the wines as “grandiose” and “the most fascinating wines you can encounter anywhere.” The domaine is marked by extremely well-cared-for sandy vineyards, often in the form of leafy clos that retain the sun, and a hands-off winemaking approach with wines raised in extremely old, mainly 600-litre misshapen casks.

Appellations

• Chateauneuf-du-Pape (red and white)
• Cotes du Rhone (via Chateau de Fonsalette and La Pialade)

Key Wines

• Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Rayas red — the flagship; 100% Grenache from sandy soils; late-harvested (often into November); raised in ancient 600L casks
• Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Rayas white — one of the great whites of the Southern Rhone
• Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pignan red — second wine
• Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette Reserve red — from a property a little to the north; wonderful in its own right
• Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette Syrah red — a Syrah-based Cotes du Rhone
• Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette white
• Cotes du Rhone La Pialade red
• Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Rayas liquoreux white — a rare sweet wine
• Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Rayas Vin Doux white

Style Notes

Always late harvesting — into November more and more in recent times, as Emmanuel wants a true ripeness. The sandy vineyard soils and ancient cask-raising produce wines of extraordinary finesse and ethereal complexity rather than brute power. The 2018 vintage was a write-off due to mildew: just 400 litres of white Rayas and 800 litres of red Rayas were produced, harvested on 28 November 2018. These wines will not be launched on the market.

The Reynaud family also owns Chateau des Tours in Vacqueyras, described as “very close to Rayas in its gentle, spiced features.”

Key Wines & Vintage Notes (JLL / drinkRhone.com)

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Chateau Rayas white

45-50% Grenache blanc (part 1940s-50s, part 1990-95), 50-55% Clairette (1986). Old 550-litre cask fermented, then vat raised 11 months. 2,660-9,300 bottles.

• 2022 — “Structure resembles a red wine. Mighty, firm gras, will live long, real depth.” Emmanuel: “Very good. Fermentation stopped and didn’t re-start until September 2023.” Drink 2052-54.
• 2021 — “Bold, striking, really thorough. Rich and enveloping, deep gras richness. Top year — knocking at the door for ******.” Emmanuel: “Grand Vintage.” Drink 2051-53.
• 2020 — “Great style, serene peach-floral aroma. Complex, carries winning intricacy.” Emmanuel: “Extraordinary, a very belle year.” Drink 2048-50.
• 2017 — “Fab bouquet, real good peach-nectarine, quince jam, butter and flowers.” Forget for 10 years. Emmanuel: “Very gras, has freshness, leave for even 20 years.” Drink 2050-52.
• 2016 — “Elegant depth. A Seigneur alongside the Monsieur of Fonsalette blanc.” Drink 2045-47.
• 2015 — “Gracefully curved, detailed, varied and subtle prompts. Delicate feel despite serene depth. Great alongside a J-L Chave Hermitage blanc.” Flourishes with time open. Drink 2044-46.
• 2006 — ****** — “Sensaround nose. Go, Maestro! Extraordinary length. A beau Rayas blanc. Has a real ‘Bugger Off, World’ quality.” Drink 2034-37.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pignan red

95-100% Grenache (1976-84), from Pignan plus 20% young Rayas vines. Whole bunches, 8-10 day vinification, old 550-litre casks 12 months. 6-8,000 bottles.

• 2022 (cask) — “Subtle indeed. Spine, body, supple, rose perfume.” Emmanuel: “Very different, very good.” Drink 2050-52.
• 2021 — “Lithe, forward, peppered, spiced, much patience required.” Drink 2050-52.
• 2020 — “Silky tones, outer airborne, inner profound. Very good centre, intricacy, complex.” Drink 2050-52.
• 2017 — “Well orchestrated, refined thanks to sandy soils. Very long, refinement, silken, sultry appeal. Floral, musky aftertaste.” Drink 2050-52.
• 2016 — “What a nose — boom! Red fruits, strawberry of great inset intensity, a bundle of delight. Pure, true, STGT wine.” Drink 2044-46.
• 2011 — “Sultry, very suave texture is wonderful, puts me in mind of the 18th century Court of France. Astounding richness. The Fonsalette is the Bonhomme — this is the Aristocrat.” Drink 2035-38.

Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette white

82-85% Grenache blanc (1957-72), 8-10% Marsanne (1978-87), 5-8% Clairette (1950s-67). Old oak cask and steel. 4-4,500 bottles.

• 2022 — “Quince, white plum, peach, apricot. Ripe notes, depth, foundation.” Emmanuel: “Very good, a lot of acidity.” Drink 2042-44.
• 2021 — “Enjoyable, fluid richness, floral, joli on the finish. Very good, has structure and style.” Drink 2043-45.
• 2017 — “Reaches out, is long and aromatic, fills the cellar. Squeezy, good heart. What a rocker.” Drink 2040-42.
• 1989 — “Bundle of honeycomb, dried fruits, coconut. Fresh and well at 21 years. A wine for thinkers. Big marks for character.” Drink 2019-21.

Cotes du Rhone La Pialade red

100% Grenache from the rape (left over) of Rayas, Pignan and Fonsalette plus young Rayas vines. 8-12,000 bottles.

• 2019 — “Buzzy, up, a real wild hedgerow nature with a saucy oiliness, much character.” Drink 2038-40.

My Tastings

Vintage Assessments (JLL Vintage Reports)

2019: La Pialade red: “buzzy, up, a real wild hedgerow nature with a saucy oiliness, much character.” 2019 was very good indeed at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. See 2019 Rhone Vintage.

2018: A catastrophic vintage for Rayas. Only 400 litres of white and 800 litres of red were produced, harvested on November 28, 2018. These wines will not be launched on the market. The worst mildew attack since 1973 devastated the Southern Rhône, with organic estates on a large scale especially hard hit. See 2018 Rhone Vintage.

2017: Rayas white: “fab bouquet, real good peach-nectarine, quince jam, butter and flowers.” Emmanuel: “very gras, has freshness, leave for even 20 years.” Pignan red: “well orchestrated, refined thanks to sandy soils. Very long, refinement, silken, sultry appeal.” A drought vintage with Grenache coulure reducing harvests. See 2017 Rhone Vintage.

2016: Rayas white: “elegant depth. A Seigneur alongside the Monsieur of Fonsalette blanc.” Pignan red: “What a nose — boom! Pure, true, STGT wine.” 2016 was an exceptional vintage at Châteauneuf-du-Pape; JLL considers it superior to 2015 in the South. See 2016 Rhone Vintage.

2015: Rayas white: “gracefully curved, detailed, varied and subtle prompts. Great alongside a J-L Chave Hermitage blanc.” See 2015 Rhone Vintage.

2014: Five stars. JLL’s headline for CdP 2014: “Finesse hits town, after an absence of decades.” He compares the vintage to the elegant 1960s wines — garrigue, herbs, neat red fruits. See 2014 Rhone Vintage.

2012: Five stars. A fresh, naturally drinkable CdP vintage — the first in 20+ years to ease back on extraction. See 2012 Rhone Vintage.

2010: Five stars (drink window 2049-51). JLL: “reserved; notable.” A magnificent vintage — perfect 10/10 for both North and South. See 2010 Rhone Vintage.

2009: Six stars (drink window 2036-40). JLL: “great purity, solid.” Sun-driven richness with greater freedom and balance than 2003. See 2009 Rhone Vintage.

2006: Rayas Tradition red rated ★★★★★★ (drink 2026-31) — the highest-rated 2006 CdP. Rayas blanc also ★★★★(★) (drink 2022-27). JLL noted that Beaucastel and Rayas showed the surest touch with white wines in 2006 — “experience is certainly an ace card here.” See 2006 Rhone Vintage.

Sources

• sources/articles/JLL/Chateau_Rayas.txt — Producer profile (John Livingstone-Learmonth, drinkRhone.com)
• sources/articles/JLL/rhone_wines_data.json — JLL / drinkRhone.com wine-by-wine vintage notes
• sources/articles/JLL/rhone_vintage_reports.json — JLL vintage reports 2006-2019 (+ 2009-2014 vintage reports)