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2017-rhone-vintage

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2017 Rhône Vintage (JLL / drinkRhone.com)

Summary

2017 is a good but uneven vintage born of extreme influences — drought and heat in the North, coulure (flower failure) and drought in the South. JLL describes the Northern Rhône as “a slightly wild card vintage” with packed density and immediate dark fruit, while the Southern Rhône is more frankly “a Stock Picker’s Vintage” that doesn’t universally stir the heart strings. Growers compare 2017 to 2015 in the North, though JLL suspects 2015 holds slightly better balance. Low acidity across both reds and whites calls into question long-term ageing potential.

Northern Rhône

Overview

The reds show packed density, an immediate surge of darkly fruited content, and tannins that vary between silken and assertive. JLL feels this is a year that will favour the most noble sites and older vines with well-established root systems.

The 2017 tannins are more naturally soft than the more structured 2015 tannins at places like Hermitage. Low acidity is the key caveat for both reds and whites.

By Appellation

  • Hermitage — Reds are dense, immediate; whites are fat, glycerol-rich. JLL considers the whites suited for dining treats if the grower sought well-ripened glycerol. Sorrel Le Gréal rated as a “mighty” vintage.
  • Saint-Joseph — Whites are fat and immediate, with the northern sector especially notable.
  • Crozes-Hermitage — Whites are fat and immediate; northern sector wines stand out.
  • Condrieu — Variable. A swing between cool wines and those pumped up with density and headiness. Working Viognier in hot summers is a real challenge.
  • Cornas — Dense, concentrated from the drought. Allemand prefers the more stylish 2016 to these hotter vintages.
  • Côte-Rôtie — Packed and darkly fruited.

Southern Rhône

Overview

A much-reduced harvest due to severe Grenache coulure in May. Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas both lost significant crop. Drought compounded the shortfall, though soil working proved extremely helpful. Blends had to be adapted, with more Syrah than usual and possible use of Clairette Blanche as a texture substitute for the missing Grenache.

JLL’s verdict is blunt: “It’s not must-buy material by any stretch of the imagination.” He advises: look for BALANCE (not a given), authenticity, and wines that are not overcharged. “Generally, I would continue to stock up on 2016.”

By Appellation

  • Châteauneuf-du-Pape — Domaine de la Vieille Julienne lost 50% across appellations, with 70% hit on Grenache. Domaine La Barroche: “a drought vintage, with concentrated tannins,” 40% Grenache loss from coulure. Syrah harvest was normal in quantity with “magnificent colour.”
  • Gigondas — Lost ~25% of harvest. Louis Barruol (Château Saint Cosme): “a very beau year, a bit less massive than 2015 and 2016.”
  • Tavel — Rich, well-packed wines ideal as table companions. Sandy zones felt the drought but had clay reserves at depth.
  • Lirac / Vacqueyras Whites — JLL impressed by the quality. Highlights include Château Saint-Roch and Château des Roques.
  • Cairanne — A standout: good value, genuine quality. One of the exceptions JLL recommends.
  • Lirac Red — Another exception worth buying; good value.

Top Wines

Northern Rhône

  • Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal — rated as a “mighty” vintage alongside 2010, 2015, 2018, and 2020
  • Chave Hermitage — deep, immediate
  • Rayas white — “fab bouquet, real good peach-nectarine, quince jam, butter and flowers”; Emmanuel: “very gras, has freshness, leave for even 20 years”

Southern Rhône

  • Château Rayas Pignan red — “well orchestrated, refined thanks to sandy soils. Very long, refinement, silken, sultry appeal”
  • Vieux Télégraphe Piedlong et Pignan — five stars; “pure, perfumed content, a real good sense of place”
  • Clos des Papes white — STGT

Key Themes

  1. Coulure devastation in the South. The cold snaps in May caused catastrophic Grenache flower failure at Châteauneuf-du-Pape and beyond, forcing fundamental blend alterations. A cautionary tale about Grenache’s vulnerability to spring cold.

  2. Low acidity raises ageing questions. Both reds and whites across the Rhône carry low acidity in 2017, which JLL explicitly flags as a concern for long-term cellaring. Drink these ahead of 2015 and 2016.

  3. The Stock Picker’s Vintage. JLL’s financial metaphor for the South is apt: no across-the-board buying, but individual producers (especially at Cairanne and Lirac) offer genuine quality and value. The best strategy is still to “stock up on 2016.”

Sources

  • sources/articles/JLL/rhone_vintage_reports.json — “2017 Northern Rhône” and “2017 Southern Rhône” (JLL / drinkRhone.com)

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