Bouchard Pere & Fils
Overview
One of Burgundy’s largest and most historic negociant-domaine operations, now part of Artemis Domaines (Francois Pinault’s wine holdings, which also include Clos de Tart, Domaine Eugenie, Chateau Latour, and Chateau Grillet). Major restructuring underway: Bouchard P&F has transitioned to 100% domaine-bottled wines from vineyards it owns outright. ~35 ha of the finest white vineyards were stripped to create a new luxury entity called Vignobles des Cabotte (based in Puligny). When dust settles, Bouchard P&F will comprise ~60 ha across Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, and Monthelie. Now certified organic, progressively moving to biodynamic. Long-time winemaker Frederic Weber moved to Cabotte; replaced by Michael Baroin (joined 2016). 2023s delayed one year for commercialization.
Appellations
- Beaune 1er Cru: Greves, Les Aigrots, Beaune du Chateau (blend of up to 16 1ers, 26 ha)
- Volnay 1er Cru: En Chevret, Clos des Chenes
- Pommard 1er Cru: Pezerolles
- Monthelie: Les Duresses 1er, village
Key Wines
- Beaune du Chateau “1er” — historic cuvee (since 1907); blend of up to 16 premiers crus
- Volnay “Clos des Chenes” (1er cru) — the domaine’s star red in 2024
- Volnay “En Chevret” (1er cru)
- Pommard “Pezerolles” (1er cru)
Style Notes
Bouchard under its new ownership is transitioning from its long negociant tradition to a focused domaine model. The organic certification and increasing vineyard personnel signal a qualitative ambition. Michael Baroin’s first solo vintages are being closely watched.
2024 Vintage Notes (Burghound #102)
Baroin: organic certification complicated matters as “contact treatments we are authorized to use can easily wash off” in constant rain. Total rainfall 1200mm vs 750mm normal. 19 treatments, mostly against mildew. Picked pinot from Sept 12. Yields ~25 hl/ha pinot, ~30 hl/ha chardonnay. 25–30% whole clusters. Baroin: “the reds are not the best that Bouchard has ever made but they are more than respectable, while the whites are terrific.”
2024 Scores (barrel):
- Volnay “Clos des Chenes” 1er (0.80 ha, lower section): (91-94) — succulent, rich, powerful; sappy dry extract; “going to require extended patience”; classic
- Volnay “En Chevret” 1er (0.25 ha, upper portion by Caillerets): (91-93) — lilting, plump, beautifully detailed; “sublime texture”; “textbook Chevret”; repay up to a decade
- Pommard “Pezerolles” 1er (0.31 ha): (90-93) — elegant, pure; sleek, vibrant; subtle minerality; could be enjoyed young or cellared a decade
- Beaune du Chateau “1er”: (90-92) — delicious; could be enjoyed young
- Monthelie “Les Duresses” 1er: (90-92) — better volume and punch; mineral; youthfully austere; compact; needs patience
- Beaune “Greves” 1er: (89-92) — very ripe for 2024; relatively supple; could be approached after 4–5 years
- Beaune “Les Aigrots” 1er: (89-91) — reduced and woody; benefit of the doubt
- Monthelie (villages): (87-89) — could be enjoyed young
My Tastings
(none yet)
Sources
sources/articles/Burghound/Burghound Issue 102 - 2024 and 2023 Cote de Beaune Reds.txt