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domaine-des-comtes-lafon

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Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Overview

Domaine des Comtes Lafon is the reference-point estate of Meursault and one of the most important white Burgundy producers in the world. Run today by Dominique Lafon, the domaine holds exceptional parcels in the finest Meursault premier crus (Perrières, Charmes, Genevrières, La Goutte d’Or, Clos de la Barre monopole), plus holdings in Volnay premier crus (Santenots, Champans) and a parcel of Montrachet grand cru. The domaine is farmed biodynamically. Dominique Lafon transformed the estate in the 1990s, raising standards dramatically and establishing it as one of the top five white Burgundy producers alongside Ramonet, Coche-Dury, and Roulot.

Appellations

  • Meursault (premier crus: Perrières, Charmes, Genevrières, La Goutte d’Or; Clos de la Barre monopole; village)
  • Volnay (Santenots, Champans premier crus)
  • Montrachet grand cru
  • Puligny-Montrachet (Montrachet)

Key Wines

  • Meursault “Perrières” (1er cru) — consistently among the greatest Meursault produced
  • Meursault “Charmes” (1er cru)
  • Meursault “Genevrières” (1er cru)
  • Meursault “Clos de la Barre” (village monopole)
  • Montrachet — produced in tiny quantities; Gilman rates it among the top 3–4 expressions of this vineyard
  • Volnay “Santenots du Milieu” — one of the finest red Volnay premier crus

Style Notes

Lafon’s style is one of profound mineral depth and extraordinary aging potential. The wines are rich but not heavy; their architecture is defined by soil signature rather than oak or fruit weight. Biodynamic farming maximizes terroir expression. The Meursault premiers crus need 8–15+ years before they reach their plateau. The Montrachet is one of the longest-lived white Burgundies produced.

2023 Vintage Notes (VFTC #115)

Visited January 16, 2025. Pierre Lafon quite happy with the vintage. Chardonnay picked from August 29th; reds from September 4th; everything in by September 7th (well ahead of September 12th storms). Malos were relatively prompt, so many whites already assembled in tank. New bottlings: Puligny-Montrachet AC and Puligny “les Charmes” (from cousins’ parcels). Poruzots not tasted (reason not recalled). Volnay AC (from young Santenots vines) too grumpy from recent racking to score precisely.

Whites:

  • Montrachet: 98 pts (2032–2065+) — “a brilliant young wine”; stunning core, laser-like focus
  • Meursault “Perrieres”: 96 pts (2030–2060+) — finest depth of any premier cru; great mineral drive and cut
  • Meursault “Charmes”: 94+ pts (2028–2055) — “so easy to drink!”; pure, racy, vibrant
  • Meursault “Genevrieres”: 94 pts (2028–2055) — more reserved; lovely girdle of acidity
  • Meursault “Goutte d’Or”: 93 pts (2027–2050) — vines nearly 35 years; “certainly one of the top premier crus”
  • Meursault “Clos de la Barre”: 92+ pts (2027–2055) — superb core of fruit
  • Puligny “les Charmes”: 92+ pts (2025–2050+) — new cuvee; “lovely new addition”
  • Meursault “Desiree”: 92 pts (2025–2050) — bottled December
  • Meursault “Boucheres”: 92 pts (2027–2050) — warmest microclimate; bright and light
  • Puligny-Montrachet: 91+ pts (2025–2045+) — new cuvee; “really a very good villages!”
  • Meursault: 91 pts (2025–2045) — includes replanted Charmes Dessous vines

Reds:

  • Volnay “Santenots du Milieu”: 94 pts (2038–2085) — “stunning wine in the making”; “great juice”
  • Volnay “Clos des Chenes”: 93 pts (2035–2085) — ablaze with sweet black fruit; proper Clos des Chenes tannin
  • Volnay “Champans”: 92+ pts (2035–2080) — still in cask; fine, classy
  • Monthelie “les Duresses”: 92 pts (2033–2075) — lovely red fruit; beautifully transparent
  • Volnay: 89–91 pts (2030–2070) — too grumpy from recent racking to score precisely

2024 Vintage Notes (Burghound #102)

Pierre Lafon: yields off 75% due to poor flowering and worst mildew pressure he has ever seen. Pinot potential alcohols 12.5–13%. Lafon: “the wines are pretty good. To be sure, not the best that we’ve ever made but wines of quality all the same.” The domaine bottles with Diam 30 composite corks. New wine: Pommard “Vaumuriens” (2024 is the second vintage, from a 0.18 ha parcel).

2024 Scores (barrel):

  • Volnay “Clos des Chênes” 1er: (90-93) — perfumed, cool; not particularly dense but sleek; good development potential
  • Volnay “Santenots du Milieu” 1er (3.78 ha, 40+ year old vines): (90-93) — firmly reduced on nose; more imposing; fine power and length; compact; very good development potential
  • Volnay “Champans” 1er (0.52 ha, 85+ year old vines): (90-92) — fresh, sleek, more refined but notably less powerful; solid development potential
  • Pommard “Vaumuriens”: (89-91) — terrific vibrancy; sufficiently supple to allow early access
  • Monthélie “Les Duresses” 1er: (88-91) — reduced; racy, fresh; needs a few years

My Tastings

(none yet)

Sources

  • sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Jan-Feb 2025 #115.txt
  • sources/articles/Burghound/Burghound Issue 102 - 2024 and 2023 Cote de Beaune Reds.txt

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