Domaine Ponsot
Overview
Historic domaine based in Morey-St-Denis, now run by Laurent Ponsot (son of Jean-Marie Ponsot). The domaine is best known for its monopole Clos de la Roche “Vieilles Vignes” — one of the most distinctive grand crus in Burgundy, made from very old vines and exhibiting a powerful, opaque, plush style. The domaine also makes Clos St. Denis, Chambertin, and a unique white Morey-St-Denis “Monts Luisants” from old Aligoté vines. Laurent Ponsot is a controversial figure who has been involved in high-profile wine fraud cases (as a fraud investigator and victim) and has made significant changes to the domaine’s style since taking over.
Appellations
- Morey-St-Denis (premier crus, grand crus Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Denis)
- Gevrey-Chambertin (Chambertin)
- Morey-St-Denis “Monts Luisants” blanc (old Aligoté)
Key Wines
- Clos de la Roche “Vieilles Vignes” — the domaine’s flagship; monopole; extraordinary depth and longevity
- Clos St. Denis “Vieilles Vignes”
Style Notes
Ponsot wines are characterized by their plushness and sappy fruit profile. The Clos de la Roche VV is broad-shouldered and monolithic in youth, taking decades to blossom. Gilman has observed that some older vintages (1993) showed disappointing development — remaining adolescent at 31 years with minimal complexity development. The 1999 out of magnum was “still fairly young and primary” at age 25. Both showings suggest the wines evolve extremely slowly.
2022 Vintage Notes (VFTC #114)
Older bottle notes from Gilman’s 2024 tastings:
- 1999 Clos de la Roche “Vieilles Vignes” (from magnum): 93 pts (2032–2100) — “still fairly young and primary at age 25; broad-shouldered and monolithic; still needs plenty of cellaring; plushness of fruit on the attack is very impressive but wine remains monolithic”
- 1993 Clos de la Roche “Vieilles Vignes”: 91+ pts (2024–2075) — “still pretty adolescent at 31 years; good constituent components but has not really developed additional complexity with nearly a quarter century of further aging. Still just okay. ‘Is the wine going to end up a bit stillborn?‘“
2024 and 2023 Vintage Notes (Burghound #101)
Laurent Ponsot reviewed in both 2024 (barrel) and 2023 (bottle). To avoid confusion with his father’s domaine, he has jettisoned “Vieilles Vignes” and other familiar labels in favor of bird-themed cuvée names.
2024 Scores (barrel):
- Clos de la Roche VV: (92-95) — top of the range
- Chapelle-Chambertin: (91-93)
- Corton-Bressandes: (91-93) (approx)
- Corton Cuvée du Bourdon: (90-93) (approx)
- Morey “Cuvée des Alouettes” 1er: (89-91)
- Morey “Cuvée des Grives”: (89-91)
- Gevrey “Cuvée de l’Abeille”: (88-90)
My Tastings
(none yet)
Sources
sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Nov-Dec 2024 #114.txt(pages 30–32)sources/articles/Burghound/Burghound Issue 101 - 2024 and 2023 Cote de Nuits Reds.txt