Jura

Overview

The Jura is a mountain wine region in eastern France, roughly 80km east of Burgundy. It is primarily white wine country (65% of plantings) — dominated by Chardonnay (43%) and Savagnin (22%) — with the remainder in red grapes: Pinot Noir (13%), Poulsard/Ploussard (14%), and Trousseau (8%). The soils are a mix of limestone and clay, with higher clay content than Burgundy, but altitude, shorter growing seasons, and cooler nights yield wines that are elegant and light on their feet despite the heavier soils. Gilman keeps the vast majority of his Jura collection in red wines, favoring Trousseau above all others.

Key Style Division: Ouillé vs. Sous Voile

The critical distinction in Jura whites:

• Ouillé style (topped up, non-oxidative) — transparent terroir expression; Gilman’s strong preference; the Jura’s calling card for quality-focused collectors
• Sous Voile style (under flor, oxidative) — Sherry-like; nuttiness, walnut, dried fruit; a historic tradition; drawbacks are very high alcohol (often 15%+) and obscured terroir

There is no label requirement to declare which style was used — a significant consumer-unfriendly omission in the AOC rules.

Grape Varieties

• Chardonnay — the most planted; used for Crémant du Jura (sparkling) and still Ouillé wines; elegant, mineral, fine
• Savagnin — high acid, tight when young; best in Ouillé style (often minerally superb); most is reserved for Vin Jaune and oxidative bottlings
• Melon à Queue Rouge — ancient Chardonnay mutation; treated as a separate variety; very mineral; rare
• Poulsard / Ploussard — thin-skinned red; delicate, pale; strawberry/cherry; fragrant
• Trousseau — Gilman’s personal Jura red favorite; builds ageworthy wines with complex fruit, soil signature, and fine-grained tannins; only 8% of plantings
• Pinot Noir — familiar style; good but less distinctive than Poulsard and Trousseau

Sub-Appellations

• Arbois — historic center; oldest AOC in France; red and white wines
• Arbois-Pupillin — sub-village of Arbois; known for Poulsard
• Côtes du Jura — broader appellation covering much of the region
• l’Etoile — smaller appellation; white wines; Domaine de Montbourgeau
• Vin Jaune / Château-Chalon — oxidative Savagnin; Sherry-like; the region’s calling card historically

Key Producers

• Domaine Ratte (Arbois) — Michel-Henri, Françoise, and son Quentin; biodynamic (Demeter); 8 ha; 80yo Pinot Noir, 100+yo Savagnin plot; all Ouillé whites; outstanding quality at low prices
• Domaine Bruno Bienaimé (Côtes du Jura) — former apprentice of Vincent Laval (Champagne/Cumières); elegant, mineral style; standout Trousseau (2022: 94 pts)
• Domaine de la Borde (Arbois-Pupillin; Julien Mareschal) — Chardonnay “Côte de Caillot” and “Terre de Lias”; Ploussard; all Ouillé; biodynamic conversion
• Désiré Petit (Arbois-Pupillin) — Crémant, Savagnin “Floral-S”, Trousseau “les Grandes Gardes”, Pinot Noir; broad range; family domaine
• Vignerons les Matheny (Arbois; Emeric Froléat) — former Jacques Puffeney apprentice; semi-sous voile Chardonnay (subtle oxidation)
• Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand (Arbois-Pupillin) — Chardonnay VV (60yo+, 3yr cask) and Savagnin (sous voile)
• Lucien Aviet et Fils (Vincent Aviet) — Trousseau “Cuvée des Géologues” Dit PPT and Ruzard (high elevation); 2021s outstanding
• Domaine de Montbourgeau (l’Etoile; Nicole Dériaux and sons) — “Vins Blancs de l’Etoile”, L’Assemblage, En Banode, Cuvée Spéciale; sous voile whites
• Domaine de la Touraize (Arbois; André-Jean and Hélène Morin) — Savagnin sous voile; Petit Curoulet
• Les Granges Paquenesses (Côtes du Jura; Loreline Laborde) — Savagnin “La Pierre Renaissance” Ouillé; Pupillon vicinity
• Domaine Jacques Puffeney (Arbois) — retired; last full vintage 2014; sold 4.2 ha to Guillaume d’Angerville’s Domaine du Pelican; known for bottle variation

Style Notes

Gilman on Jura reds: “I find that the red wines made here are some of the most exciting in the entire region.” All three reds are cellar wines — need 2–3+ years minimum before drinking, with most serious examples requiring much longer. Trousseau: dark berries, cherries, espresso, bonfire, sweet botanicals, stony soil; builds complexity and refinement with 10–20+ years. Poulsard: strawberry, cherry, woodsmoke, rose petals, delicate; fragrant and transparent. Pinot Noir: most Burgundian in style but less individualistic.

My Tastings

(none yet — some Jura bottles in cellar per My Cellar)

Sources

• sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC May-June 2024 #111.txt — Jura/Savoie section (pages 47–60): full survey of 2022 and 2021 red wines; 2022–2016 whites; multiple producers across Crémant, Chardonnay, Savagnin, Melon à Queue Rouge, Pinot Noir, Poulsard, Trousseau