Barbaresco

Overview

Barbaresco is Piedmont’s second great Nebbiolo DOCG, produced around the three communes of Barbaresco, Neive, and Treiso, just east of Alba. Historically called “the wine of the king” vs Barolo’s “the king of wines,” Barbaresco is generally considered slightly softer and earlier-developing than Barolo, though the finest examples are equally long-lived. The soils are predominantly Tortonian marl with more limestone than Serralunga Barolo, lending an inherent elegance. VFTC #117 covers 2021 and 2022 Barbarescos from La Ca’Növa (Barbaresco township), Pio Cesare (Treiso), and Cascina Baricchi (Neive).

Key Producers

• La Ca’Növa — Barbaresco township; Montefico Bric Mentina, Montestefano; outstanding traditionalist
• Pio Cesare — Treiso; “Il Bricco” monopole, “Pio” blend; respected classical estate
• Cascina Baricchi (Natale Simonetta) — Neive; “Rose delle Casasse” Riserva; 95 points (2018)
• Cantine Rizzi (Enrico Dellapiana, Treiso) — classical style; Nervo (classic) and Pajorè (old vine flagship) crus
• Angelo Gaja — Barbaresco village; Costa Russi, Sorì Tildin; modern legend; older vintages drinking magnificently

Sub-Appellations / Key Crus

170+ MGAs (single vineyards) recognized. Most relevant for VFTC coverage:

• Montefico (Barbaresco) — La Ca’Növa Bric Mentina; on the Barbaresco/Neive boundary; inherently elegant
• Montestefano (Barbaresco) — La Ca’Növa; 40-year-old vines
• Gallina (Neive) — adjacent to Montefico across the appellation boundary
• Bricco Asili / Treiso (Treiso) — Pio Cesare’s home territory; red-fruited, elegant style

Grape Varieties

Barbaresco is 100% Nebbiolo.

Style Notes

Barbaresco shows more red-fruit character (cherries, pomegranate), rose petal perfume, and red curry spice notes relative to Barolo’s more austere black fruit and tar-dominated profile. The best examples from the Barbaresco township can age 30–40+ years. The 2022 vintage (drought) has produced powerful, tannic wines earmarked 2045–2100 by Gilman. Traditional winemaking (long maceration, large botti, native yeasts) produces the most age-worthy results.

My Tastings

(none yet)

2021 Vintage Notable Scores (VFTC #118)

• Cantine Rizzi “Pajorè”: 94 (2043–2100) — old vine cru from Treiso; “outstanding young Barbaresco”
• Cantine Rizzi “Nervo”: 92 (2038–2095) — classically styled; beautiful young wine
• Gaja Barbaresco 1993: 93 (at apogee) — “fully into its plateau of peak maturity”
• Gaja “Sorì Tildin” 1993: 94+ (drinking beautifully at 32 years)
• Gaja “Costa Russi” 1988: 95+ (at 37 years; “simply superb”)

Sources

• VFTC #117 (John Gilman, May-June 2025), pages 102–129 — 2021 and 2022 vintage coverage
• sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC July-August 2025 #118.txt — 2021 Barbaresco from Cantine Rizzi; older Gaja vertical notes