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rhone-annual-report-2025

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Rhône Annual Report 2025

Synthesis of John Gilman’s annual Rhône report in VFTC #119 (October 2025). Covers new releases from 2023 and 2022 vintages as well as older wines.

Vintage Overview

2023 (New Releases)

The dominant new release vintage. Characterized by:

  • Wet spring (May–June rains) preventing early hydric stress
  • Blazing two-week heat spike in late August (40°C+): forced early white harvest, stressed vines
  • Violent hailstorm September 18 devastated Cornas and southern Saint-Joseph/Crozes (100mm+ rain + hail); Côte-Rôtie received only 20mm and no hail
  • Perfect Indian Summer post-September 18 for those who waited to harvest reds

Character: White wines largely need early drinking (low acids from drought). Red wines are deeply structured — some with elevated drought tannins, but vibrant fruit. For Côte-Rôtie, 2023 produced old-school alcohol levels (Champet’s “la Viallière” at 12.5%) that Gilman considers classic. Northern reds are outstanding with long aging potential. Southern reds less consistent; Châteauneuf had drought challenges.

2022 (Now Available / Recent Releases)

Extremely challenging growing season:

  • Driest first three months since 1959/1976/2003
  • One of only two vintages (with 2003) exceeding a certain number of 95°F+ days
  • August 15 storms helped north (revival from hydric stress) but caused catastrophic hail in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  • Steep hillside vineyards (Hermitage, Cornas, central Saint-Joseph) benefited less from August rains

Character: Heterogeneous. Some wines are light with slightly green, drought-desiccated tannins; others are dense, powerful, deeply structured. Almost all top 2022 reds demand extended cellaring — even basic Côtes-du-Rhône need 4–5 years minimum. Châteauneuf had the hardest time. Northern Rhône produced many outstanding wines (notably Franck Balthazar’s Chaillot, Marc Sorrel, Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice). Top 2022s have excellent fruit depth to outlast the tannins.

Top-Scoring Wines (95 Points and Above)

WineVintageScoreDrinking Window
Domaine Noël Verset Cornas1988982025–2055
Domaine Marc Sorrel Hermitage “le Gréal”2023962042–2100+
Aurélien Suenen “Le Mont-Aigu”201796+2030–2075+
Domaine Franck Balthazar Cornas “Chaillot”2022952045–2100
Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas2006952035–2100
Domaine Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph2006952025–2055+
Domaine Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie “Côte Blonde”2013952033–2085
Domaine Julien Barge Côte-Rôtie “Coeur de Combard”2017952033–2085
Robert Jasmin Côte-Rôtie1988952025–2065+
Domaine Champet “les Fils à Jo”2022942042–2090
Domaine Champet “les Fils à Jo”2021942038–2085+
Julien Barge “Les Côtes”2019942034–2085+
Julien Barge “Coeur de Combard”2018942038–2085
Julien Barge “Les Côtes”201794+2033–2085
Guigal “Vignes de l’Hospice” Saint-Joseph202294+2037–2085
Guigal “Château d’Ampuis” Côte-Rôtie2021942038–2075+
Guigal “Vignes de l’Hospice” Saint-Joseph2011942025–2050
Guigal Condrieu2023——
Sorrel Hermitage rouge2023942040–2100
Grand Bourjassot Gigondas “Cuvée Cécile”2021942035–2075+
Éric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes2005942025–2065
Gauby “Muntada” Côtes du Roussillon201994+2035–2075+
Gauby “Coume Gineste” Blanc2020942025–2045
Domaine les Cailloux ChNdP1989942025–2055
Jaboulet “la Chapelle” Hermitage1991942030–2075
Jaboulet “la Chapelle” Hermitage1983942025–2055
Domaine Bernard Gripa Saint-Joseph2005942025–2055+

Key Themes and Takeaways

1. The Drought Era Demands Patience

Multiple consecutive drought vintages (2019, 2020, 2022, 2023) have produced a generation of red wines with elevated drought-concentrated tannins. Even basic Côtes-du-Rhône from 2022 may need 4–5 years minimum. The flip side: these wines have the fruit concentration to survive long aging if cellared properly.

2. White Wines from Drought Years: Drink Early

Acids are typically low in drought white wines (2023, 2022, 2020). Most will best show their qualities relatively young. Exceptions exist — the few whites with elevated acidity from drought concentration can age well.

3. Northern Rhône Has Adapted Better Than the South

Gilman notes that vignerons in Cornas, Saint-Joseph, and Côte-Rôtie have adapted winemaking techniques to better manage extreme drought heat. The granite hillside wines are coming through better than flatter vineyards. The south (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) continues to struggle more with sustained heat and hail damage.

4. The Artisan Old-Vine Tier Is Thriving

The wines that consistently shone in this report — Balthazar “Chaillot,” Champet “les Fils à Jo,” Sorrel “le Gréal,” Gonon, Clape — are all distinguished by extreme old-vine age (50–100+ years) on steep granite hillsides. These vines’ root depth allows them to avoid the worst hydric stress during drought summers.

5. Tariff War Disruption in 2025

Gilman notes that many new Rhône releases were delayed in shipping due to US tariff uncertainty, with wines “piling up in producers’ cellars.” This created supply gaps for fall 2025 arrivals in the US market. The disruption has created uncertainty about wine business viability if conditions persist.

Standout Discoveries

  • Noël Verset 1988 Cornas (98 pts): Gilman calls it “the single finest example of mature Cornas I have ever had the pleasure to drink.” A historical benchmark wine now at absolute zenith.
  • Sorrel 2023 “le Gréal” (96 pts): “Greatest young wine I have ever tasted from the Sorrel family. Reminds me strongly of Gérard Chave’s 1990 and 1991 Hermitage in their youth.” Outstanding vintage at Sorrel in 2023.
  • Franck Balthazar “Chaillot” 2022 (95 pts): The Verset vine lineage continues to produce transcendent Cornas even in the most challenging drought vintage. 13% alcohol; drinking window to 2100.
  • Robert Jasmin 1988 Côte-Rôtie (95 pts): The old-school style at full bloom — “would make Marius Gentaz proud.”

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