Chablis

Overview

Chablis is Burgundy’s northernmost outpost, producing Chardonnay of unmatched mineral intensity from Kimmeridgian limestone soils — fossil-rich, chalky, and ancient. The wines are distinctly different from Côte de Beaune Chardonnay: leaner, more austere, with a characteristic flinty, oyster-shell minerality and piercing acidity. The appellation hierarchy runs from Petit Chablis → Chablis → Premier Cru (17 classified, best include Montée de Tonnerre, Vaillons, Fourchaume, La Forest, Montmains, Vosgros, Vaucoupin) → Grand Cru (7 vineyards on one hillside: Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos, Blanchot).

Key Producers

• Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
• Domaine François Raveneau
• Domaine Bessin-Tremblay
• Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen
• Domaine Louis Michel
• Domaine Christian Moreau
• Domaine Gilbert Picq et Fils
• Domaine Patrick Piuze
• Domaine Servin
• Domaine Testut
• Domaine William Fèvre

Grand Crus

All seven lie on the same south-facing hillside right bank of the Serein river:

• Les Clos — largest, most powerful and age-worthy
• Vaudésir — aromatic, complex
• Les Preuses — racy, mineral, excellent aging potential
• Valmur — elegant, rich
• Grenouilles — small, distinctive
• Bougros — lightest in style, northern end of the slope
• Blanchot — feminine, perfumed

Style Notes

Classic Chablis is not fermented in oak (or uses neutral oak only), preserving its raw mineral character. The best producers (Dauvissat, Raveneau) do use oak but integrate it seamlessly over long aging. Yields are typically higher than Côte d’Or. High acid structure means premier and grand crus age 15–30+ years easily.

Vintage Notes

• 2024: Biblical crop losses — frost (April 18–23 especially devastating to grand crus Vaudésir, Valmur, Les Clos), May hail, constant mildew. Dauvissat lost 90% of crop; no Les Clos, Séchets, or Montmains from Dauvissat. Raveneau has no Montmains. Guillaume Michel lost 70% in Vaudésir, 80% in Grenouilles. Domaine Christian Moreau blending Valmur, Vaudésir and Les Clos into a single “Grand Cru” bottling. Despite devastation, wines are classically structured, long-aging, among the finest since 2014. Gilman strongly advises against early drinking.
• 2023 (VFTC #115): Truly outstanding vintage. Large, healthy crop with no catastrophic frost or hail (unlike 2024). Grand crus structured for 20–40+ years. Alcohol levels classic (12.5–13.2%). Six producers visited in depth: Dauvissat (Les Clos and Les Preuses both 97), Raveneau (Clos 97, Valmur 96), Fevre (Les Clos 96, Cote de Bouguerots 95+), Louis Michel (Les Clos 95+, Grenouilles 95, Vaudesir 95), Piuze (Les Clos 95+, Les Preuses 95+), Gueguen (Bougros 95, Les Preuses 95). Fevre and Dauvissat wines judged “the raciest and most tensile.” See 2023 Burgundy Vintage.

My Tastings

(none yet)

Sources

• sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Jan-Feb 2025 #115.txt — detailed 2023 vintage coverage (six producers)
• sources/articles/VFTC/VFTC Jan-Feb 2026 #121.pdf — detailed 2024 vintage coverage (pages 1–135)